Just about everyone has been involved in cleaning,
preserving, and maintaining something. Painting the
family home or washing and waxing your car are good
examples. What you did was to protect a surface from
the effects of weather or exposure, to extend its lifetime,
and to improve its appearance.
The U.S. Navy has a far greater problem because all
Navy ships operate in a much harsher environment than
your home or car. Constant exposure to the sea and
saltwater corrosion can quickly turn the exterior of a
ship into a mass of rust. Interior spaces have their
problems as well. Constant changes in the weather and
in the surrounding water temperature cause moisture,
humidity, and chemical reactions that affect electrical
systems and machinery. To overcome these harsh
conditions, the Navy expends a great deal of time,
effort, and money applying surface preservatives. These
preservatives range from detergent and fresh water to
paint and lubricants. How well these preservatives work
depends on you.
: When you finish this chapter,
you will be able to-
*
Recognize the purpose of cleaning and
preserving.
*
Identify the cleaning bill.
*
Recall the purpose of compartment cleaning,
sweepers, cleaning process, field day, and zone
inspections.
Maintaining clean conditions aboard ship and
ashore is an important job. Cleaning involves practically
every member, from the compartment cleaner to the
inspecting officer. Navy life requires each of us to have a
personal interest in our living and working areas, not
only for the sake of appearance but for our health and
safety as well.
Each area of the ship is divided into various
departments for upkeep. The Cleaning, Preservation,
and Maintenance Bill describes these areas and outlines
the department that is responsible for them. This bill is
carefully planned to make sure all interior areas and
exterior areas of the ship's hull are assigned to personnel
for upkeep and that no areas overlap or are left out. Each
division within the department assigns its personnel to
the spaces it's responsible for. Division personnel carry
out the duties of cleaning, preserving, and maintaining.
The term
generally applies to
persons assigned to clean living or berthing
compartments or spaces, such as passageways and
heads. If you are assigned compartment cleaner duties,
you will be responsible for keeping your spaces clean,
preserved, and in good order. Newly assigned personnel
are closely supervised to make sure they understand
what to clean and how to clean it. Items, such as
electrical and mechanical devices, might be unfamiliar
to you. These types of items are located in almost every
space aboard ship. With this in mind, caution must be
observed at all times. Ask your supervisor to point out
any hazardous items located in your compartment and
observe all special cleaning instructions.
Cleaning gear is stocked in and issued from the first
lieutenant's storeroom. Each division is periodically
issued cleaning gear and is then responsible for its
proper stowage and care. Because cleaning compounds
and solvents are often flammable or toxic, or both, they
must
be left unattended or improperly stowed.
You should always read warning labels and follow their
directions carefully. Gear, such as brooms and swabs
(mops), must be cleaned after each use and placed in
their stowage racks. Gear adrift, such as rags, clothing,
or personal gear, must be "policed up" immediately. If
left adrift, these items are a tripping or fire hazard-or
18-1
.
-Mark Twain
worse, they might clog up dewatering equipment if the
space were flooded.
the end of the regular working day, and at other times as
scheduled. At these times, all persons assigned as
sweepers draw their gear and sweep and swab down
their assigned areas. All trash and dirt are picked up in a
dustpan and placed in a trash receptacle.
If dirt is swept over the side, the wind may blow
it back on board or the dirt may stick to the side
of the ship. In either case, additional work is
necessary to clean the ship.
At this time you should empty all butt kits (make
sure no butts are still burning) and trash receptacles as
instructed.
dump trash or garbage over the side of
the ship without first obtaining permission from the
officer of the deck. At times, all trash must be kept in a
safe area aboard the ship until it can be properly
removed.
Dirt, soil, and contamination all describe the same
thing-a foreign material on a surface where it is not
wanted. Soil includes grease, oil, tarnish, rust, food
residue, and stains. Most exposed surfaces that have
been soiled may be cleaned with the proper use of
cleaning agents.
Detergents are materials that have the ability to
remove contamination and soil. There are other ways of
cleaning besides using detergents or cleaning
compounds. These include purely mechanical
processes, such as removing rust from steel by sand-
blasting or cleaning decks by sweeping. For many
cleaning problems, chipping, sweeping, sanding, or
brushing may be needed. However, when detergent
compounds are coupled with the mechanical action, a
cleaner surface is usually produced with less time and
work.
The steps used in most detergent cleaning
operations are as follows:
1. Wetting-The soil and the surface of the object
being cleaned must be wetted. If the surface is not
wetted properly, cleaning results will be poor. Contrary
to popular belief, water has very poor wetting
properties. Its wetting ability, and therefore its cleaning
ability, is improved by adding other materials, such as
soap or synthetic detergents. Adding soap or synthetic
detergents cause the water to flow into tiny crevices and
around small particles of soil.
2. Scrubbing-Dirt is loosened by the mechanical
action of rubbing or scrubbing. For example, oil
droplets are emulsified; that is, they are coated with a
thin film of soap and prevented from recombining, and
then they rise to the surface. In a somewhat similar
manner, solid particles are suspended in solution.
3. Rinsing-Rinsing is very important. Rinsing
removes loosened dirt from the surface along with the
cleaning material.
Field day is cleaning day. Periodically, a field day is
held. All hands "turn to" and thoroughly clean the ship
inside and out, usually in preparation for an inspection.
Fixtures and areas that sometimes are neglected during
regular sweepdowns (overhead cables, piping, corners,
spaces behind and under equipment, and so on) are
cleaned. Bulkheads, decks, ladders, and all other
accessible areas are scrubbed. Knife edges and door
gaskets are checked; any paint, oil, or other substances
are removed; all brightwork is shined; and clean linen is
placed on each bunk. Field days improve the appearance
and sanitary condition of the ship, aid in the
preservation of the ship by extending paint life, and
reduce the dirt intake caused by operating equipment.
Because of weather conditions, there are many days
at sea when the ship's topside areas can't be cleaned. At
the first opportunity, all topside surfaces are cleaned
with freshwater and inspected for signs of rust and
corrosion. If such signs are discovered, you should tend
to the area immediately. A little work at that time will
save you a lot of work later.
18-2
Aboard ship, deck coverings get more wear than
any other material. Unless deck coverings are properly
cared for, costly replacement is required. There are
several materials used for covering decks, but only two
types are covered here. These are the resilient and the
nonslip (nonskid paint) types.
include vinyl tile, vinyl
asbestos tile, and linoleum. These deck coverings do not
need painting; however, daily sweeping and wiping
away spills as soon as possible are required. Resilient
deck covering is clamped down (cleaned with a damp
swab) frequently, allowed to dry, and then buffed with a
buffer. For more thorough cleaning when the deck is
unusually dirty, apply a solution of warm water and
detergent with a stiff bristle brush or buffer and rinse
with clean water to remove residual detergent. Stubborn
dirt and black marks left by shoes can be removed by
rubbing lightly with a scouring pad, fine steel wool, or a
rag moistened with mineral spirits.
After the deck covering is washed and dried, it can
be polished (with or without waxing) with a buffer, or it
may be given a coat of self-polishing wax and allowed
to dry without buffing. Deck coverings can be buffed
several times before rewaxing.
No wax should be applied to the deck when the ship
is going out to sea or when heavy weather is anticipated.
This is an added precaution against slipping, even
though the approved floor waxes are designed to be slip
resistant.
contain
pumice, which provides a better footing. To clean a
nonskid painted deck, use a cleaning solution of
detergent and dishwashing compound. To make the
solution, mix 1 pint of detergent and 5 tablespoons of
dishwashing compound. You can mix this compound
with freshwater to make 20 gallons of cleaning solution.
Apply the solution with a hand scrubber, let it soak for 5
minutes, and then rinse with freshwater.
wax or
paint nonskid deck coverings. Waxing or painting
reduces their nonskid properties.
If it becomes necessary to spruce up the
appearance of a nonskid deck cover, brush it
with deck paint diluted with mineral spirits.
The diluted paint should be as thin as possible
so that the nonskid properties are not affected.
Frequent inspections are held to make sure that all
spaces, machinery, and equipment are in a satisfactory
state of operation, preservation, and cleanliness. One
type of inspection, the zone inspection, divides the ship
or station into various sections. Each zone is then
assigned to an inspection party or team. Usually the CO
will head one team, while an officer or chief petty
officer will head each of the remaining teams. If you are
assigned to present a compartment, you present the
space to the inspecting officer by saluting and greeting
the inspector in the following manner: "Good morning
(afternoon), sir/ma'am; Seaman Apprentice Frost (your
rank and name) standing by compartment (name or
number), for your inspection, sir/ma'am." You will then
stay with the inspecting officer during the inspection of
your spaces to answer questions and provide assistance.
Such things as stowage cabinets, lockers, and drawers
should be unlocked before the inspection for easy
access. Usually the inspecting officer will give an
overall grade to the space; for example, a grade of
outstanding would indicate that no new discrepancies
were noted and all previous discrepancies have been
corrected. You can be proud of an outstanding grade.
Q1. The responsibility for cleaning and maintaining
certain spaces in the ship is listed in what
publication?
Q2. What person is generally assigned to clean living
or berthing spaces?
18-3
Q3. You should pick up and put away gear that has
been left adrift for what reason?
Q4. True or False. When sweeping exterior decks,
you can sweep dirt over the side.
Q5. List the three steps used in most detergent
cleaning.
a.
b.
c.
Q6. List two types of deck covers.
a.
b.
Learning Objectives: When you finish this chapter, you
will be able to-
*
Identify types of cleaning solvents.
*
Recall the precautions to be followed when
working with cleaning solvents.
No matter what the job, from paint removal to
swabbing the decks, take precautions against
carelessly using cleaning solvents. Look at the
following example:
Seaman Joe Frost didn't read the labels on the
chlorine-based cleaning material he was using
to clean the commode. He decided to clean the
drains at the same time and added a granulated
drain cleaner to the chlorine-based cleaner.
Then he left the head. A few minutes later he
heard a loud explosion. The reaction between
the chlorine-based cleaner and granulated
cleaner caused the explosion. Luckily, no one
was hurt, but the head was a mess.
Solvents used in paints, adhesives, rubber and
plastic materials, and degreasing solutions are
hazardous to your health. Most solvents are toxic and,
with a few exceptions, are flammable. Take the
appropriate measures to reduce their toxic and
flammable effects. In addition, solvents that come in
contact with your skin can cause serious skin problems.
When using solvents, always observe the following
precautions:
*
sure the space in which you are working
has adequate ventilation.
*
protective clothing, goggles, respirators,
gloves, and other appropriate equipment.
*
sure accessible fire-fighting equipment is
nearby.
*
every precaution to prevent excessive
vapors from contaminating the air.
*
the labels on all containers of liquids.
*
up spilled solvents immediately.
*
contact with your eyes, skin, or clothing.
*
swallow solvents.
*
breathing the vapors.
*
solvent containers tightly closed when you
are not using them.
*
containers for leakage.
*
solvents from a defective/leaking
container to a new container.
*
sure containers are empty before you
discard them. You must observe the approved
practices for disposal of solvents, cleaners, and
their containers.
*
all containers used to store solvents.
18-4
*
and comply with all instructions and
precautions on the label.
Always follow safety precautions when working
with solvents.
use solvents in an unventilated
space under any circumstances. Special clothing
requirements also must be observed when using some
solvents.
Carelessness on anyone's part could cause a mishap,
resulting in injuries or even deaths. By observing safety
precautions, you will reduce mishaps and save lives.
When you think of ventilation, you usually think of
air conditioning and cooling. However, when working
with solvents, the term
means providing
fresh air and exhaust to the area in which you are
working. Make sure the work area is properly
ventilated. That includes topside areas of a ship because
some topside areas are enclosed on three sides and will
not allow proper ventilation.
When applying flammable coatings or using
solvents, you
provide adequate ventilation, which
will help prevent accidental ignition. You may have to
use extra fans or local exhaust to ventilate a space,
especially in spaces where pockets can develop. A
is the buildup of vapors and poisonous air in an
area, causing an explosion.
When in doubt,
contact your supervisor for additional guidance.
Any type of solvent will give off some type of vapor.
These vapors may be toxic or flammable. Always use
proper ventilation to prevent a buildup of vapors. As you
have learned, some vapors can linger in pockets of
spaces; therefore, make sure the complete work area is
fully ventilated. Before starting a job, ask a gas free
engineer to examine the area for toxic gases and ask for
the proper ventilation plan for the space. Be sure to have
the space checked frequently for excessive vapors. If
vapors are found to be excessive, stop all work
immediately and have all personnel clear the area until it
is safe to return.
When working with solvents, you always face the
risk of their contacting your skin through splatters or
spills. Some caustic solvents will actually eat the skin
off your body. Make sure that you have all the protective
clothing needed for the job.
When working with solvents, you
wear
adequate protective clothing and gloves to prevent skin
contact with the solvents and cleaning materials.
wear jewelry or clothing with cuffs, loose pockets, rips,
or loose ties. Observe the following safety precautions
when working with solvents:
*
Wear chemical splash goggles at all times.
*
Wear acid-resistant aprons, face shield with
goggles, gloves, and boots when handling acid or
caustic cleaners.
*
Wear nonskid rubber-soled shoes when working
in enclosed spaces or when flammable vapors
may be present (spark prevention).
*
Never work in an enclosed space without using
the buddy system.
*
Respiratory protection, with either an organic
vapor cartridge or supplied air, should be worn
when dispensing, handling, or cleaning using
solvents.
Using solvents for cleaning saves time; but, make
sure you read all the labels before using the solvent.
Many solvents are corrosive and can irritate or cause
serious injuries to your eyes, skin, and lungs.
Nothing ruins a CO's day faster than receiving word
that the ship is burning. A fire can cause injury and loss
of life
take a ship off the line for a long time. When
working with solvents, you have no room for error. If
you're on a work detail that requires the use of solvents
18-5
or solvent-based paint, make sure the proper
fire-fighting equipment is located close to the work
area. One little spark can set the vapors of some solvents
into a roaring fire that can take life and destroy a ship.
Proper equipment may include fire extinguishers,
charged fire hoses, or foam. You always need to be
prepared. An ounce of prevention goes a long way. Ask
your supervisor to check the type of fire-fighting
equipment you are going to use to see if more equipment
or some other type is needed for the job at hand.
While working with people using solvents or
solvent-based paint, make sure you know the location of
the nearest fire alarm. Also, make sure all the people
working know the nearest fire escape route. Always
notify damage control central (DCC) when you are
using flammable materials.
When using solvents, be careful not to spill them on
the deck or get them on anything except what you are
cleaning. Solvents may cause paint to bubble and peel
off surfaces. The corrosive nature of some solvents can
damage equipment. When mixed with some tile
compositions, solvents can form toxic vapors that can
irritate your lungs and make you sick. If you spill
solvent, clean it up as soon as possible. If you think the
spill has caused some type of damage, contact your
supervisor for guidance.
When a spill involves more than 5 gallons of solvent
or presents a threat to the ship or the health of the crew,
report it immediately to your supervisor, DCC, or the
OOD. Each ship has a hazardous material response kit
to handle such emergencies. Spilled material and
contaminated clothing or rags become hazardous waste
and must be treated as hazardous material (HAZMAT).
Your supervisor will tell you the proper disposal
procedures for your command.
Working with solvents is dangerous. Avoid inhaling
vapors. Personnel with a history of chronic skin disease,
allergies, or asthma should not be permitted to work
with paint, solvents, and thinners.
When you handle a solvent, don't let it contact your
skin. If a solvent does contact your skin, flush it with
clear water as soon as possible. If solvent contacts your
skin or eyes, report to the nearest medical facility as
soon as possible for treatment.
When working with solvents, wear an approved
respirator and protective clothing at all times. If you
think that your respirator isn't working properly,
request an air line mask. The safety department of your
ship usually provides these items.
If you breathe some of the vapors given off by
solvents, get to a doctor as soon as possible.
The National Institute for Occupational Safety and
Health/Mine Safety and Health Administration
(NIOSH/MSHA) must approve all respirators and
pumps. Users must be medically qualified and fit-tested
before wearing a respirator. The following text
describes the air-purifying respirators and air-supplied
or self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) approved
for use by the Navy:
*
Air-purifying respirators use a filter, a chemical
cartridge, or a combination of the two to remove air
contamination. Filters capture particles of dust or metal
fumes. The cartridges may contain a chemical or carbon
to absorb vapors or gases. A combination of filter and
cartridge is used for a combination of hazards, such as
spray painting. The filter captures the spray mist and the
cartridge absorbs the paint vapors, protecting the
wearer.
*
Air-supplied or self-contained breathing
apparatus (SCBA) provides fresh air when the vapor or
gas concentration is too high or the area lacks oxygen.
Air-supplied or SCBA is required for all internal
shipboard spray painting operations. Air for supplied air
masks is provided by certified breathing air
compressors or breathing air pumps.
The use of proper equipment may save your life and
the lives of your shipmates. If you are in doubt about the
type of equipment to use, be sure to check with your
supervisor.
18-6
Most fires in paint and solvent storage areas are
caused by a buildup of vapors. Usually, vapors escape
from containers that are not closed tightly. It only takes a
small spark to ignite these vapors. Since vapors can
quickly displace the oxygen in a storage space, there
may not be enough oxygen left to sustain life.
All containers
be tightly closed when not in
use. Besides the danger of vapors accumulating, air can
cause a chemical breakdown of some solvents. After a
short time, the solvent may evaporate or decay to the
point that it can't be used.
The Navy uses many types of corrosive materials
that can eat through a container. You must make sure
this doesn't happen. How can you do that?
If you are
inspecting the containers, check all the seams carefully
for leaks or cracks. Check the sides of the containers for
dents. If a container is dented, that means the side of the
container may have been weakened and will eventually
leak. Don't sign for material in damaged containers. If
you are unsure of the condition of a container, ask your
supervisor to inspect it.
If you discover a leaking container while inspecting
your storage areas, find the name of the material or
solvent on the label of the container. Then immediately
inform your supervisor of the problem. The material or
solvent in the container may be caustic and highly
flammable. You and your supervisor should inspect the
damaged container and the surrounding area. Then the
material or solvent should be transferred to another
container using a standard Navy transfer pump. This
container must be equal to or surpass the storage
requirements of the damaged container.
One of the most dangerous practices is to discard
(throw away) a container partially filled with a solvent
or some type of caustic or flammable substance. For
example, several years ago a container of highly
flammable liquid was discarded into a dumpster in
Charleston, South Carolina. The dumpster was taken to
the trash disposal area where the driver, thinking that the
dumpster only contained burnable trash, dumped the
contents of the dumpster into a small fire. As the
flammable liquid drained from the container, it ran into
the fire and created an explosion that was heard for
miles around. The dumpster and the truck were
destroyed, and the driver was killed instantly.
Solvent containers are considered hazardous waste,
so you
dispose of them according to local hazmat
regulations. When at sea,
throw solvent
containers over the side; they contaminate the seas.
Stow containers in a disposal storage area until you
reach your next port of call and then have them disposed
of in the proper manner.
On board naval ships, paints and solvents are stored
in a storeroom designated for flammable liquids. The
storeroom should be neat, clean, cool, and dry. Make
sure a label appears on the door of the space to show the
space contains flammable liquids. Store paints or
solvents in tightly sealed cans or containers. Mark the
container with the name, formula number, solvent
composition, Navy hazard identification label or
Department of Transportation hazard identification
label, and manufacture date of the paint or solvent it
contains.
Inspect the contents of any paint or solvent
container more than 2 years old. If the container is unfit,
properly dispose of it. If you're not sure whether the
paint or solvent is usable (particularly large quantities),
send samples to the nearest laboratory for testing.
Tests are performed with a combustible gas
indicator (explosimeter), toxic gas detectors, and an
oxygen indicator. Personnel who test a space are
required to wear an oxygen-breathing apparatus (OBA)
or air-line mask. If the atmosphere is found unsafe, the
space is thoroughly ventilated and provided with
adequate forced fresh air circulation. Only after the
space has been retested and pronounced safe to enter
can personnel without an OBA or air-line mask enter it.
After personnel (other than testing personnel) have
18-7
entered a declared safe space, periodic tests are made to
determine that it is still safe. Upon the detection of an
unsafe condition, an order must be given for all
personnel to evacuate the space.
Because a space cannot be guaranteed to remain
safe, you should be aware of the symptoms of bad air.
Symptoms of bad air include the following:
*
Labored breathing
*
Excessive fatigue from slight exertion
*
Headache
*
Dizziness
If you feel any of these symptoms, warn others and get
to fresh air immediately.
A more dangerous situation exists if a compartment
has no, or very little, oxygen. If this happens, a person
can lose consciousness almost immediately without
warning. If such an incident occurs while you are in an
area,
enter the space without wearing an OBA or
air-line mask; otherwise, you will become a casualty.
Always summon (call for) help before making a rescue
attempt. Also, have a person stationed at the entrance to
maintain communications while watching to see that
you are not overcome.
As you have already learned, the Navy uses many
types of solvents for many cleaning assignments. You
also know that many of these solvents are highly toxic
and some are highly flammable. Take special care when
using many of these solvents; make sure you store them
in cool, dry areas. Material Safety Data Sheets
(MSDSs) list the storage requirements for solvents. You
should refer to the MSDS for solvents you are using.
Most cleaning solvents contain toxic substances.
These substances can cause injuries if they are inhaled,
absorbed by the skin, or ingested. All toxic materials
must be handled carefully to prevent injury. Many of
them have additional hazards, such as flammability. The
following paragraphs contain information about
general categories of toxic cleaning solvents. If you
have any questions about the solvent you are going to
use, check the Maintenance Requirement Cards
(MRCs) for the task or ask your supervisor.
The three types of solvents covered in this section
are chlorinated cleaning solvents, organic cleaning
solvents, and fluorocarbon refrigerants and solvents.
Chlorinated cleaning solvents can be highly toxic if
used improperly. They may be irritating to skin and
toxic if ingested. In confined spaces, in spaces with
inadequate ventilation, or when the vapor concentration
is increased by heating, toxic vapors may cause damage
to the lungs, eyes, and nervous system. Solvents
decompose at high temperatures and produce gases
more toxic than the solvents themselves. Solvents react
with alkalies, oxidizers, and powdered metals to
produce toxic gases.
Common types of chlorinated cleaning solvents are
trichloroethane (inhibited methyl chloroform),
trichloroethylene, tetrachloroethane, and tetra-
chloroethylene (perchloroethylene, dry-cleaning
solvent). Because of the extreme dangers involved, the
Navy severely restricts the use of these solvents.
You should observe the following precautions when
working with chlorinated cleaning solvents:
*
Never stow chlorinated cleaning solvents near
heat sources or open flames.
*
Don't allow them to come in contact with hot
surfaces.
*
Make sure stowage areas are well ventilated and
monitored regularly by the gas free engineer.
Don't stow these solvents near incompatible
materials. (
: Incompatible materials
include strong alkalies, such as sodium
hydroxide; oxidizers, such as calcium
hypochlorite and sodium nitrate; or powdered
metals, such as aluminum.)
When handling chlorinated cleaning solvents, wear
the following personal protective equipment (PPE):
*
Neoprene gloves
18-8
*
Safety goggles that will protect against splashes,
or a face shield
*
A chemical cartridge respirator for protection
against small amounts of organic vapors or for
protection for a short duration; or an air-line
respirator (or some other type of supplied-air
respirator) if use is extensive or in a confined
space
*
Coveralls
Make sure work areas in which you use chlorinated
cleaning solvents have proper ventilation. For enclosed
spaces, an air change every 3 minutes is recommended.
Consult the gas free engineer to determine if the
ventilation is adequate.
Organic cleaning solvents include the following:
*
Toluene
*
Xylene
*
Some alcohols
*
Acetone
*
Methyl ethyl ketone
*
Ethyl acetate
*
Dry-cleaning solvent
*
Kerosene
*
Petroleum
*
Ether
*
Turpentine
*
Morpholine and other related compounds
These compounds are highly flammable and highly to
moderately toxic. Some are also corrosive. Inhalation of
concentrated vapors may cause dizziness, nausea, or
vomiting.
Organic cleaning solvents should be stowed as
follows:
*
Stow organic cleaning solvents in a flammable
liquid storeroom, ready service storeroom, or a
flammable locker.
*
Keep them away heat, open flames, or
spark-producing devices.
*
Stow them away from oxidizers, such as calcium
hypochlorite, sodium nitrate, and hydrogen
peroxide.
When handling organic cleaning solvents, wear the
following PPE:
*
Neoprene gloves
*
Safety splash goggles
*
Protective coveralls (recommended)
In addition, if vapors accumulate over 100 parts per
million (ppm), wear an OBA and notify the gas free
engineer.
Fluorocarbon refrigerants and fluorocarbon
solvents, such as trichlorotrifluoroethane (Freon 113,
Freon TF, Genetron 113, R-113), are commonly found
aboard ship. They are used in food storage compart-
ments and air-conditioned spaces and as solvents in
engineering spaces.
Fluorocarbon vapors have the following
characteristics:
*
They are colorless and almost odorless.
*
They cannot be detected without special
instruments.
*
They are nonflammable and nonexplosive;
however, exposure to flames or hot surfaces will
cause these compounds to generate hydrogen
chloride, hydrogen fluoride, and other
poisonous gases.
*
They aren't irritating, but contact may cause
frostbite.
Operations involving trichlorotrifluoroethane (Freon
113) are considered hazardous. An industrial hygienist
or a gas free engineer must evaluate and approve these
operations to ensure the work process meets safety
requirements.
18-9
When exposed to the atmosphere, fluorocarbon
vapors will accumulate in low spaces unless local
ventilation is provided. Since these vapors are heavier
than air, they can displace oxygen. Inhaling vapors at
high concentrations (4,500 ppm or greater) will cause
dizziness or narcosis. If fluorocarbon vapors displace
oxygen, suffocation occurs.
When handling fluorocarbon refrigerants and
solvents, wear the following PPE:
*
Rubber gloves
*
Safety splash goggles
*
Protective clothing
In addition, if vapors accumulate over 1,000 ppm, wear
an OBA or air-line respirator; and notify the gas free
engineer.
Q1. When you are working with solvents, what does
the term
mean?
Q2. List the protective equipment you should wear
when handling acid or caustic cleaners.
a.
b.
c.
d.
Q3. How must the material and rags used to clean up
a solvent spill be treated?
Q4. List two types of respirators used by Sailors
when handling solvents.
a.
b.
Q5. What causes most fires in paint and solvent
storage areas?
Q6. List the symptoms personnel might have when
working in a compartment having bad air?
a.
b.
c.
d.
: When you finish this chapter,
you will be able to-
*
Identify the equipment and procedures used for
surface preparation.
*
Identify types of paint and recognize their use.
*
Recall fixtures, devices, and surfaces that should
not be painted.
*
Recall painting safety precautions.
*
Recall methods used when painting to include
care of brushes and rollers.
The Navy uses from 25 to 30 million gallons of all
types of paint a year. Roughly 20 million gallons are
used for preservation, some of which you will apply.
Paintbrush purchases also run into millions of dollars. It
is no exaggeration to state that millions of man-hours a
year are expended in cleaning, chipping, and painting.
To paint a ship's exterior with one coat takes 20
gallons on a tugboat, 50 gallons on a submarine, and as
much as 950 gallons on a carrier. The average basic
18-10
paint requirements for preservation of a destroyer every
60 to 70 days are 270 gallons. All of this is a way of
saying the Navy uses a lot of paint. The more attention
you pay to the basic instructions, the less paint you will
have to use.
The Navy uses paint primarily to preserve surfaces.
It seals the pores of steel and other materials, prevents
decay, and arrests (stops) rust and corrosion. Paint also
serves several other purposes. It is valuable as an aid to
cleanliness and sanitation because of its antiseptic
properties and because it provides a smooth, washable
surface. Paint is also used to reflect, absorb, or redis-
tribute light. For example, light-colored paint on a
ship's interior distributes natural and artificial light to its
best advantage.
Learning to paint properly requires the selection of
suitable paints for the surfaces to be covered, the proper
preparation of the surfaces before painting, and the
correct methods of applying paint. Though the selection
of suitable paints won't concern you now, you should
know how to prepare the surface and how to apply paint
with a brush and roller. Improper surface preparation
and paint application, in that order, are the greatest
reasons for paint failure.
For paint to stick to a surface, all salt, dirt, oil,
grease, rust, and loose paint must be removed
completely, and the surface must be thoroughly dry. Salt
and most dirt can be removed with soap or detergent and
freshwater. Firmly imbedded dirt may require
scrubbing with scouring powder. When scrubbing
won't remove oil and grease, they may be removed with
paint thinner or other approved solvents. After
scrubbing or scouring, always rinse the surface with
freshwater.
The removal of rust, scale, and loose paint requires
the use of hand tools or power tools, paint and varnish
removers. Hand tools are usually used to clean small
areas. Power tools are used to clean larger areas and for
completely cleaning decks, bulkheads, and overheads
covered with too many coats of paint. Paint and varnish
removers are used to remove paint from wood.
.-The most commonly used hand
tools are sandpaper, wire brushes, and hand scrapers
.
.-Use sandpaper to clean corners and
to feather paint. (
: To feather paint, you taper the
edges of chipped areas down to the cleaned surface so
that no rough edges remain.) Paint will bond best to a
clean surface that has been lightly sanded.
Sandpaper is graded from 12 to 600, which
corresponds to the size of the abrasive grit on its surface.
For example, the coarsest sandpaper is 12 grit and the
finest is 600 grit. Very fine emery (a natural abrasive)
paper is sometimes used to polish unpainted steel
surfaces. However,
use abrasives, such as
sandpaper, on unpainted galvanized metal (brass,
copper, nickel, or aluminum) surfaces.
.-A hand wire brush is a handy
tool for light work on rust or on light coats of paint. You
can also use hand wire brushes for brushing weld spots
and cleaning pitted surfaces.
.-Hand scrapers are made of tool
steel. The most common type is L-shaped, with each
end tapered to a cutting edge like a wood chisel. Hand
scrapers are useful for removing rust and paint from
small areas and from plating less than 1/4 of an inch
thick when it's impractical or impossible to use power
tools.
.-Occasionally, it's
necessary to use a chipping or scaling hammer.
However, take care to use only enough force to remove
the paint. Too much force dents the metal, resulting in
high and low areas. In painting, the paint naturally is
thinner on the high areas. Therefore, if you leave high
and low spots, rust will form on the high spots and, in
time, spread under the good paint.
.-The most
useful power tool is the portable grinder (fig. 18-1).
Portable grinders are usually equipped with a grinding
wheel that may be replaced by either the rotary wheel
wire brush or the rotary cup wire brush. Light-duty
brushes are made of crimped wire. Use them to remove
light rust. Heavy-duty brushes are made by the twisting
of several wires into tufts. Use them to remove deeply
imbedded rust.
18-11
Scaling is done by using either tool shown in figure
18-2. A chisel is used with the pneumatic hammer and
must be held so that the chisel strikes the surface at
approximately a 45º angle. As with the hand scaling
hammer, take care that you don't dent the surface. The
rotary scaling and chipping tool shown in figure 18-2
(called a
) has a bundle of cutters or
chippers mounted on either side. As it is pushed along
the surface to be scaled, the rotating cutters do the work.
This tool is particularly helpful on large deck areas.
The electric disk sander is another useful tool for
preparing surfaces. However, it must be used with care.
If too much pressure is applied or it is allowed to rest in
one place too long, it will quickly cut into the surface,
particularly wood and aluminum surfaces.
.-
You must be trained and qualified before you operate
portable power tools
You
observe the following
safety precautions when working with electrical and
pneumatic (air) tools:
*
Wear eye and ear protection while chipping,
grinding, sanding, or wire brushing. If dust is
excessive, also wear a respirator. Do not wear
jewelry or loose fitting clothing.
*
Do not use defective tools. If you have any doubt
about the condition of any tool, show it to your
supervisor, who will have its condition
determined.
*
Make certain that electrical power tools are
grounded properly. Every portable electrical
power tool must be provided with a ground lead
that connects the tool casing to the ship's
structure and an up-to-date electrical safety tag.
*
Give your full attention to your job.
*
Give electricity the respect it is due-115 volts
can and does kill.
*
Do not operate power tools in areas where
flammable vapors, gases, liquids, or exposed
explosives are present.
*
Do not allow power cords and air hoses to kink or
come in contact with oil, grease, hot surfaces, or
sharp objects.
*
Do not lay power cords and air hoses over
ladders, steps, scaffolds, or walkways in such a
manner as to cause a trip hazard.
*
Do not use compressed air to clean clothing
being worn or to blow dust off the body.
Paint consists of four essential ingredients:
*
Pigment
*
Vehicle (known as the
)
*
Drier
*
Thinner
provides the coloring, rust prevention (in
primers), and the lasting quality of the paint. The most
common pigments are made of metals, such as lead,
zinc, or titanium.
18-12
The vehicle is the liquid portion in a paint. It wets
the surface being painted, penetrates into the pores, and
ensures adhesion. Until recently, the base of most paints
was oil, such as linseed oil, but few paints today contain
oils. Some have vehicles of processed oils in
combination with synthetic resins; others have vinyl
chlorinated bases that are quick drying.
To add to the drying properties of paint, certain
metallic compounds, called
, are added to the
paint. When mixed with oil, they act as conveyers of
oxygen, which they take from the air and add to the oil,
speeding up the drying process.
are used for thinning the paint to the
proper degree for spraying, brushing, or rolling. They
also increase the penetration of the paint into the surface
and cut down the gloss. Too much thinner affects the
durability of the paint. The most common type of
thinner is made of mineral spirits, but the proper type to
use depends on the paint base.
t.
Paints are of many different kinds, and the Navy
constantly works and experiments to improve them.
As a result, you are provided the best paints available
for the type of surface to be covered. Most Navy
paints are named according to color and/or use, such
as exterior gray deck and pretreatment coating
(primers).
.-
Primers are base coats of paint that
stick firmly to bare woods and metals, providing a
smooth surface for finishing coats. They also serve to
seal the pores, and those applied on steel are rust
inhibitors as well.
A minimum of two coats of primer should always
be used after the surface is cleaned down to the bare
metal. A third coat should be added at all outside
corners and edges. At least 8 hours of drying time
should be allowed between primer coats.
.-
Synthetic resin
coatings, such as epoxies, urethanes, and inorganic
zinc, are used for areas subject to severe service or
exposure, such as bilges, tanks, and decks. The base
coating is mixed with a converter (hardener) to cure or
harden the paint film.
.-
Vertical surfaces above
the upper limit of the boot topping (waterline area,
painted black) are given two coats of haze gray.
Horizontal surfaces are painted with exterior deck gray
(darker than haze gray) except the underside of deck
overhangs, which are painted white.
A nonskid deck paint is used on main walkways,
flight decks, and hangar decks. It contains a small
amount of pumice, which helps to give a better footing.
Top-hamper areas subject to discoloration from smoke
and stack gases and the tops of stacks are painted black.
.-
Depending on the use of
individual compartments, several colors are authorized
or prescribed for interior bulkheads, decks, and
overheads.
The choice of colors for berthing, messing, and
recreation spaces usually is left to the individual ship.
All other shipboard spaces are painted the color
prescribed by the Naval Sea Systems Command. Deck
paint colors, for example, are dark green in the ward-
room and officers' quarters, dark red in machinery
spaces, and light gray in enlisted personnel living
spaces.
Some common bulkhead colors are green for
offices, radio rooms, the pilothouse, and medical
spaces; gray for the flag plot, the combat information
center, and the sonar control room; and white for store-
rooms and sanitary and commissary spaces. Overhead
colors are either the same as the bulkhead or white.
18-13
Q1. List the most common hand tools used to remove
paint and rust from small areas.
a.
b.
c.
Q2. How should you prepare chipped edges of paint
to make ready for painting?
Q3. List the two main reasons for a bad paint job.
a.
b.
Q4. List the four main essential ingredients in paint.
a.
b.
c.
d.
Q5. How many coats of primer should be applied to
bare metal?
paint the following items:
*
Start-stop mechanisms of electrical safety
devices and control switchboards on machinery
elevators
*
Bell pulls, sheaves, annunciator chains, and
other mechanical communications devices
*
Composition metal water ends of pumps
*
Condenser heads and outside surfaces of
condensers made of composition metal
*
Sprinkler piping within magazines
*
Exposed composition metal parts of any
machinery
*
Glands, stems, yokes, toggle gear, and all
machined external parts of the valves
*
Heat exchange surfaces of heating or cooling
equipment
*
Identification plates
*
Joint faces of gaskets and packing surfaces
*
Lubricating gear, such as oil holes, oil or grease
cups, grease fittings, lubricators, and surfaces in
contact with lubricating oil
*
Lubricating oil reservoirs
*
Machined metal surfaces (working surfaces) of
reciprocating engines or pumps
*
Metal lagging
*
Rods, gears, universal joints, and couplings of
valve operating gear
*
Rubber elements of isolation mounts
*
Ground plates
*
Springs
*
Strainers
*
Threaded parts
*
Zincs
*
Working surfaces
*
Hose and applicator nozzles
*
Knife edges; rubber gaskets; dogs; drop bolts;
wedges; and operating gear of watertight doors,
hatches, and scuttles
18-14
*
Electrical contact points and insulators
*
The original enamel, lacquer, or crackle finish on
all radio, electrical, and sound equipment, unless
existing damage makes refinishing essential
*
Decorative plastic, such as tabletops
The Navy uses a variety of metal, metal
compounds, and synthetic materials to build a ship or
boat. Each type of surface requires special preparation
and special primers and paint to extend its life cycle. In
this section, you will learn about various surfaces and
the procedures needed to maintain them properly.
Aboard ship, aluminum surfaces are a special
problem. If they're not treated properly, corrosion
results. Corrosion is greater when dissimilar metals (for
example, aluminum and steel) are in contact with each
other
are exposed to seawater. Seawater is an
electrolyte (an electrical conductor). As such, the
seawater causes an electrical current to flow between
the steel and aluminum surfaces, resulting in galvanic
corrosion of the aluminum. The first sign of aluminum
corrosion is a white, powdery residue in the area where
the two dissimilar metals make contact. Later, the
aluminum surface is pitted and scarred. Finally, there is
a complete deterioration of the aluminum area. Holes in
aluminum plate enlarge and screws, bolts, or rivets pull
out, or they may even disintegrate.
Before joining aluminum to another metal, give
each surface a pretreatment formula and two coats of
primer formula.
Never use red lead as a primer on aluminum.
If the joint is exposed to the weather, use insulation
tape between the two surfaces, and fill the joint with
caulking compound. When aluminum is joined to
wood, give the wood one coat of phenolic varnish.
Replace any missing fasteners (screws, bolts, rivets, and
so on) with items of the original type. (
:
Replacements of stainless or galvanized steel may be
used.) When painted, the best way to prepare the
aluminum surface for repainting is to use hand scrapers,
hand and power wire brushes, or fine grit sandpaper. Be
careful if you use a power sander to
Never use scaling hammers on aluminum.
prepare the
aluminum surface for repainting.
When painting a steel surface, preparation of the
surface is important. Steel surfaces
be completely
free of rust, loose paint, dirt, scale, oil, grease, salt
deposits, and moisture before they are painted. Old
paint in good condition is an excellent base for
repainting. Smooth, thoroughly clean, and dry the
surface before applying new paint.
In touch-up painting (when only small areas or
spots need repainting), remove old paint to the edges of
the spot or area until an area of completely intact paint is
reached. (
: This area must be free of rust or
blisters underneath the paint.) Feather the edges of the
remaining paint.
When completely reworking an old painted surface,
take the old paint down to the bare metal. Then apply a
primer before painting. Never leave a base metal surface
exposed overnight. Always put on a primer coat before
you secure for the day.
Fill holes, dents, and cracks in all surfaces and
open-grained woods before they are finished. Putty,
wood fillers, and even sawdust mixed with glue can be
used on wood. Use epoxy fillers on steel and aluminum
surfaces. The method you use varies with the type of
filler. Therefore, follow the instructions carefully.
Allow all fillers to dry and then sand them smooth
before you apply the first finishing coat.
Paint and varnish removers are most often used on
wood surfaces. However, you can use paint and varnish
18-15
on metal surfaces that are too thin to be chipped or wire
brushed. The three types of removers generally used are
flammable, nonflammable, and water-base alkali. They
are hazardous materials, and you must strictly observe
safety precautions when you use them. Use these
removers only in well-ventilated spaces. Don't use the
alkali type on aluminum or zinc because of its corrosive
properties.
The procedures you follow when using paint and
varnish removers are the same regardless of type. Wet
the surface with a smooth coat of the remover and let it
soak thoroughly until the paint or varnish is loosened.
Then lift the paint off with a hand scraper. After the
surface is cleaned, wet it again with the remover and
wipe it off with a rag. Finally, wash the surface
thoroughly with paint thinner or soap and water. The
final rinse gets rid of any wax left by the remover and
any acids that may have worked into the grain of the
wood.
The following safety precautions should be
observed when you use paint and varnish removers:
*
Never use paint and varnish removers around an
open flame. Some types are highly flammable.
*
Do not use removers in confined spaces because
their dangerous anesthetic or toxic properties can
kill or cause injury if you are exposed to them for
long periods.
*
Do not use paint or varnish removers if you have
an open cut or sore on your hand
you wear
rubber gloves.
*
Do not let the remover touch your skin; watch out
particularly for your face, eyes, and mouth. If
paint or varnish remover should come in contact
with the skin, wash it off immediately with cold
water; seek medical attention as soon as possible
if it gets into your eyes or mouth.
*
Never use turpentine or mineral spirits as hand
cleaners because they are absorbed through the
skin pores. Gasoline also is dangerous and must
never be used. To clean paint or varnish remover
from your hands, use soap and water only.
Painting can be dangerous if one is careless. Many
paints are highly flammable, others are poisonous, and
some are both flammable and poisonous. To increase
your chances of remaining alive and healthy, observe
the following precautions:
*
Keep paint off your skin as much as possible.
Wash your hands, arms, and face with soap and
warm water before eating. Do not put your
fingers, food, or cigarettes in your mouth if they
are contaminated with paint.
*
Be sure you have adequate ventilation, and wear
an approved paint/spray respirator whenever
there is reason to believe the ventilation is
inadequate in the place you are painting. At the
first sign of dizziness, leave the space and get to
fresh air.
*
Do not smoke, use an open flame, or use
spark-producing tools in the vicinity of painting
operations.
*
Use only explosion-proof lights near painting
operations.
*
Do not wear nylon, orlon, or plastic clothing or
covering. These materials generate static
electricity, which may spark and ignite paint
vapors.
*
Do not carry matches or cigarette lighters or
wear steel buckles or metal shoe plates. Too often
one forgets and strikes a match or lights a
cigarette lighter in areas filled with explosive
vapors. Also, steel buttons, buckles, and tabs can
strike sparks that are invisible to your eyes but
are capable of igniting paint vapors.
*
When pouring solvents, make sure the containers
are touching each other to prevent sparks.
*
Never paint during electrical storms.
*
Keep food and drink away from areas being
painted.
18-16
*
Do not use gasoline, turpentine, mineral spirits,
or other solvents to remove paint from the skin,
as the skin will absorb them.
*
Follow the instructions of your supervisor
carefully.
Before paint is issued, several events must occur.
1. The division petty officer inspects the area to
make sure all preparations have been made. The petty
officer will check for the following:
*
Are all items not to be painted properly
identified or masked?
*
Are all safety precautions understood and
properly observed?
*
Is the surface ready to be painted?
2. Having checked out these items, you must fill
out the paint request; and describe the area to be painted,
including the paint color, type, and approximately how
much paint is needed. Completing the paint request chit
reduces the waste of materials and time spent redoing a
paint job. Your division officer may also inspect the area
to be painted before signing the paint chit.
3. The next step is the approval of the request by
the first lieutenant, who regulates the issue of paint.
As you can see, sometimes getting ready to paint
takes longer than the actual painting. Remember, if you
spill paint (oil, grease, and so on), you are responsible
for cleaning it up. At the end of working hours, return all
paint and brushes to the paint locker. Store the paint in
its proper container, and clean all brushes and rollers.
Three means of applying paint are used in the
Navy-brush, roller, and spray. The majority of Sailors
don't use paint sprayers; therefore, they aren't covered
in this section. However, you will learn about using
brushes and rollers to apply paint. Everyone in the Navy
should be familiar with these items.
Smooth and even painting depends as much on
good brushwork as on good paint. There is a brush for
almost every purpose. You should use the proper brush
and keep it in the best condition.
The two most useful brushes are the flat brush and
the sash tool brush. These brushes and some others
commonly used aboard ship are shown in figure 18-3.
With a flat brush, you can paint almost anything aboard
ship. Flat brushes are wide and thick. They carry a large
quantity of paint and provide a maximum of brushing
action. Sash brushes are handy for painting small items,
for cutting in at corners, and for hard-to-get-at spaces.
The fitch brush also is useful for small surfaces. The
painter's dusting brush is used for cleaning surfaces.
The following are hints to help you use a paintbrush
properly:
*
Grip the brush firmly, but lightly as shown in
figure 18-4. Don't put your fingers on the bristles below
the metal band (ferrule). The grip shown permits easy
wrist and arm motion. To hold it otherwise restricts your
movements and causes undue fatigue.
*
When using a flat brush, don't paint with the
narrow edge. This practice wears down the corners and
spoils the shape and efficiency of the brush. When using
an oval brush, don't revolve it too much or it soon wears
to a pointed shape and becomes useless. Do not poke
oversized brushes into corners and around moldings.
Such a practice bends the bristles, eventually ruining a
good brush. Use a smaller brush that fits into such odd
spots.
*
Dip the brush into the paint, but not over halfway
up the bristles. Remove the excess paint by patting the
brush on the inside of the pot. (Avoid overfilling the
18-17
brush; otherwise, paint will drip on the deck or other
surfaces and run down the handle.)
*
Hold the brush at right angles to the surface
being painted, with the ends of the bristles just
touching the surface. Lift the brush clear off the
surface when starting the return stroke. If the brush is
not held correctly and is not lifted, the painted surface
will be uneven, showing laps and spots and a daubed
appearance. Also, a brush that is held at any angle
other than a right angle will soon wear away at the
ends.
For complete and even coverage, follow the Navy
method and first lay on, and then lay off. "Laying on,"
means applying the paint first in long strokes in one
direction. "Laying off," means crossing your first
strokes. The proper method is shown in figure 18-5. By
using the recommended Navy method and crossing
your strokes, you can distribute the paint evenly and
completely with a minimum amount of paint being
used.
Always paint the overhead first, working from the
corner that is farthest from the entrance of the
compartment. By painting the overhead first, you can
wipe drippings off the bulkhead without smearing the
bulkhead paint.
When overhead surfaces are being painted, sections
should normally be painted in a fore-and-aft direction;
beams, in an athwartship direction. But where sections
of the overhead contain many pipes running parallel
with the beams, it is often difficult to lay off the paint in a
fore-and-aft direction. In such situations, better results
are obtained by laying off the paint parallel with the
beams.
To avoid brush marks when finishing up an area you
have painted, use strokes directed toward the last
section finished, gradually lifting the brush near the end
of the stroke while the brush still is in motion. Every
time the brush touches the painted surface at the start of
a stroke, it leaves a mark. For this reason, never finish a
section by brushing toward the unpainted area. Instead,
always end up by brushing back toward the area already
painted.
When painting pipes, stanchions, narrow straps,
beams, and angles, lay the paint on diagonally, as shown
in figure 18-6. Lay off along the long dimension.
Always carry a rag for wiping up dripped or
smeared paint. Carefully remove loose bristles sticking
to the painted surface.
After you master the art of using a paintbrush
properly, learn to cut in. Cutting in is a simple procedure
that you can learn in a short time.
Suppose you have to cut in the angle between an
overhead and a bulkhead, as shown in figure 18-7. Start
at one corner. Hold your brush at an angle of about 76º to
80º from the bulkhead and about 10º from the overhead.
Draw your brush along in fairly long, smooth strokes.
This is one job where working slowly does not produce
better results. The slower you stroke, the wavier your
line will be.
The type of paint roller (fig. 18-8) used in the Navy
is equipped with a replaceable cylinder of soft fabric
over a solvent-resistant paper core. It rotates on the shaft
of a corrosion-resistant steel frame.
18-18
Large areas, such as ships' decks and sides (free of
rivets, bolts, cable, pipes, and so on), can be covered
with paint quickly by the roller method. The paint
should be laid on and laid off the same way as when
brushes are used. Apply a moderate amount of pressure
to the roller to make sure the paint is worked into the
surface. If pressure is not applied, the paint doesn't stick
and soon peels off. When the paint roller is properly
used, it will apply a more even coat and use less paint
than with a brush.
Unfortunately, too many good paintbrushes and
rollers are ruined because painters have little or no idea
how to care for them, or they are too lazy to clean them.
To avoid ruining paintbrushes and rollers, pay attention
to the following hints. Treat applicators as though you
paid for them yourself, and replace them when they no
longer are usable.
*
. The
weight of the brush bends the bristles, making it
almost impossible to do a good job.
*
. If you
intend to leave a paint-filled brush for long
periods, as over the noon hour, fold wax paper or
other heavy paper around the bristles and ferrule
in such a way that air is kept away from the
bristles. Twist the paper around the handle and
secure it with rope yarn or sail twine. Cover your
pot of paint, and place both it and the brush in a
safe place. Before starting to paint again, stir the
paint thoroughly with a paddle-not the brush.
*
.
Then turn in your paint and brush to the paint
locker.
Ordinarily, the person or persons working in the
paint locker will clean and stow the brushes turned in.
Occasionally, though, they require help; and you may be
detailed to the job. If so, follow instructions carefully;
and do a thorough job of cleaning the brushes.
18-19
Paint lockers usually have containers with divided
compartments for stowing different types of brushes
(that is, paint, varnish, shellac, and so on) for short
periods of time. These containers normally have tight
covers and are equipped for hanging brushes so that the
entire length of the bristles and the lower part of the
ferrule are covered by the solvent or cleaner oil kept in
the container. Brushes are suspended so that the bristles
don't touch the bottom, preventing them from becoming
permanently misshapen.
Brushes to be used the following day should be
cleaned in the proper cleaner and placed in the proper
compartment of the container. Those not to be used
again soon should be cleaned, washed in soap or
detergent and water, and hung to dry. After drying, they
should be wrapped in heavy paper and stowed flat. Do
not leave a brush soaking in water. Water causes the
bristles to separate into bunches, flare, and become
bushy.
The proper cleaners for paint applicators are shown
below:
Paint rollers are cleaned in a different fashion. After
use, the fabric cylinder is stripped from the frame,
washed in the cleaner recommended for the paint used,
washed in soap and water, rinsed thoroughly in fresh
water, and replaced on the frame to dry. Combing the
pile of the fabric while it is damp prevents matting.
Q1.What is the first sign of aluminum corrosion?
Q2. True or False. Old paint in good condition makes
an excellent base for repainting.
Q3. For painting small areas and cutting into corners,
what type of paintbrush is best?
Q4. What method of painting does the Navy use to
completely and evenly cover an area?
We live close together aboard ship. The daily
routine of cleaning the berthing compartment and head
areas is not only beneficial for our own welfare but for
our shipmates as well. It also makes those long cruises
easier if we take the time to make our living spaces as
pleasant as possible. The occasional zone inspection
will help in keeping all our spaces up to speed. Looking
for problems that exist, or ones that could arise in the
future, will benefit us all.
We also discussed some of the more important
aspects of surface preservation. Most of our ships serve
for over 20 years, and in the case of carriers, over 30
years. That is testimony to how well the Navy cares for
its ships. This care would not be possible without
personnel having the proper equipment and materials,
being properly trained in the correct application of these
materials, and taking pride in doing a good job. Anyone
can paint, but taking that extra step to ensure the
assigned job is completed with the best possible results
is the difference in a job that really looks sharp and one
that just gets by.
A1. To find the responsibilities for cleaning and
maintaining spaces, you should refer to the
.
A2. Th
is responsible for
cleaning living and berthing spaces
18-20
Natural and synthetic oil-
base paints and varnishes;
chlorinated alkyd paints
Turpentine or mineral
spirits
Latex emulsion paints
Water
Chlorinated rubber paints
Synthetic enamel thinner
xylene
Shellac
Alcohol (denatured)
Lacquer
Lacquer thinner
A3. You should pick up and stow gear that has been
left adrift. This
A4.
. You should not sweep dirt and debris over
the side.
A5. The three steps used in mostdetergentcleaningare
a.
b.
c.
A6. The two types of deck covers are-
a.
b.
A1. When working with solvents, the term
means
A2. When handling acid or caustic cleaners, you
should wear the following protective equipment:
a.
b.
c.
d.
A3. Treat material and rags used to clean up a solvent
spill as
.
A4. The two types of respirators used by Sailors
when handling solvents-
a.
b.
A5. Most fires in paint and solvent storage areas are
caused by
.
A6. Personnel who work in a compartment having
bad air might have one or all of the following
symptoms.
a.
b.
c.
d.
A1. The most common hand tools used to remove
paint and rust from small areas are-
a.
b.
c.
A2. To prepare chipped edges of paint for painting,
you should
.
A3. The two main reasons for a bad paint job are-
a.
b. I
A4. The four main essential ingredients in paint
are-
a.
b.
c.
d. T
A5.
should be
applied to bare metal.
A1. The first sign of aluminum corrosion is a
.
A2.
old paint in good condition makes an
excellent base for repainting.
A3. When painting small areas and cutting into
corners, you should use the
.
18-21
A4.
To completely and evenly cover an area, you
should use the Navy
.
18-22